Instructions: MINI Anodizer

Warranty

Reactive Metals Studio, Inc. (RMS) warrants this instrument against defects in materials or workmanship for a period of 90 days from the date of delivery to the original owner. This warranty is specifically limited to the replacement or repair of any such defects, without charge, when the complete instrument is returned, transportation charges prepaid. This warranty excludes all other warranties expressed or implied, and RMS is not liable for a breech of warranty in any amount exceeding the purchase price of the goods.

Disclaimer

The following instructions provide an outline for the basic operation of a Mini Anodizer. It is recommended that you also read the enclosed copy of "Studio Preparation and Coloring of Titanium". Although this thesis was written specifically about titanium, the principles related to anodizing apply to all of the reactive metals.

The Mini was designed to provide a compact and practical anodizer. A few supplies will be needed. They are: (1) a non-metal storage container (1-4 cups) with cover,
(2) distilled water,
(3) Tri sodium phosphate (TSP). TSP is a phosphate cleaner that can be purchased in paint and hardware stories. TSP is not available in some areas. Good substitutes are ammonium sulphate(fertilizer), Epsom salts and low sudsing dish detergent.

Note: To replace fuse unplug & use only 115V, 3amp slow blow.

Electrical shock hazard Anodizing requires the use of high voltge DC power supplies. All safety precautions for working with electricity should be followed. Wear rubber gloves at all times. Students should be supervised at all times.

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Isolation
An isolation transformer is included with each anodizer. This is an important safety feature. This transformer separates the metal case and components of the anodizer from the current supplied through the wall outlet. Isolation lowers the chance of electrical shock. Do not work on a metal table, in contact with water or steam pipes or electrical conduit.

The operator of an electrical power supply must wear rubber gloves! There are no exceptions! Be safe, practice precaution at all times! Rubber gloves provide a second layer of isolation to protect the operator.

Isolation transformer	0-200 volt MINI Anodizer	Container with electrolyte, cathode and parts to anodize
	MINI Anodizer

Set up

Place the MINI power switch in the OFF position.

Plug the power cord from the isolation tranformer into a standard 115 volt a.c., three prong grounded wall outlet. Grounding is important. If you are not sure that the outlet is grounded have it checked by a qualified technician. Plug the power cord from the MINI into the outlet provided on the isolation transformer.

There are two banana jacks on the back of the MINI and two colored leads with banana plugs. The red (+) is the anode and is always connected to the work you wish to color or anodize. The black (-) is the cathode and will always be connected to the cathode in the bath or the metal in a applicator. Plug the two color coded leads into their respective jacks on the back of the anodizer.

ON/OFF			Output banana jacks
	Lamp.. Fuse..Do not use! ...............AC recepticle

Note: To replace fuse unplug & use only 115V, 3amp slow blow.

On the front and along the bottom edge of the unit you will see the On/Off switch, the power indicator lamp, the fuse holder (LMB 3 AMP) and a standard AC outlet. Do not operate the anodizer with anything plugged into the AC outlet.

Note that the power control has indications from 0 to130 . This is a scale based on the percentage of output, not voltage. The approximate voltage output is 0 to 200 volts DC(direct current) as shown on the chart below. The actual voltage you are working with is of little concern. What is necessary is a reliable scale by which to choose your color. Most of your work will be prepared between the settings of 0 and 75.

Output Chart

Setting	Voltage	Setting	Voltage
10 =	15	80 =	119
20 =	32	90 =	133
30 =	45	100 =	148
40 =	60	110 =	162
60 =	77	120 =	177
60 =	90	130 =	190+
70 =	105

Each increment on the dial equals approximately 1.5 volts DC. Variations in the line voltage provided by power companies can cause corresponding variations in the output voltage.

Electrolyte

Make the electrolyte with TSP (Tri Sodium Phosphate) and distilled water. TSP can be purchased in most hardware and paint stores for about $2 per pound. Mix TSP with distilled water in a ratio of approximately ten to one by weight (50 grams to 500 milliliters water or 3/4 pound to one gallon water). This solution will keep indefinitely. Coca-Cola, dish detergent, Epsom salts, ammonium sulfate, even salt water can be used as substitutes. TSP is recommended because it is a wetting solution which helps in some anodizing processes. Please note that TSP is considered a water pollutant and is not available in some areas.

Titanium wire (Anode)(+)  Cathode(-)  Pieces to anodize (Electrolyte Bath) Anodizing Bath

Bath Anodizing

It is best to use a small (1 to 4 cups) glass or plastic (non-conductive) container for the electrolyte. Cut a two inch by 1/4 inch strip along the top of the stainless steel cathode that came with your MINI and fold it up. It should extend out of the bath where you will connect the black (-) lead from the MINI. The alligator connectors and other metals should not be submerged in the bath.

A protective liner for the cathode can be made from a mesh known as "plastic canvas" available in most variety and crafts stores. Cut a strip of the mesh to fit the inside dimension of your bath. Place it inside of the cathode to protect your work from accidentally touching the cathode and causing a short circuit.

Applicators

Note: The metal ferrule of paint brushes, other metals andconductive materials that could come in contact with the operator or cause a short circuit should be covered with electrical tape or coated with a plastic coating. Always wear rubber gloves.

Almost any absorbent material can be used as an anodic paint brush. Some arrangement must be made with each for a metal cathode to be in contact with the applicator. An artists paint brush should have a wire soldered directly to the metal ferrule (see the diagram). The ferrule should then be protected with shrink tube (available in electronic supply stores) or electrical tape to prevent metal to metal contact which can damage your work and the anodizer.

A piece of sponge, fabric or paper can be pinched into the black (-) alligator clip and used to print its texture on the surface. The alligator clip becomes the cathode. Care should be taken not to let the metal cathode come in contact with your work.

Many types of foam pads for painting can be found in paint stores. A titanium or stainless steel plate can be inserted into the foam pad and connected to the cathode. This way large areas can be painted with your MINI.

Masking
There is a long list of materials and techniques for masking areas of your work. Our Anodizers Tape is especially effective on flat surfaces. Electroplaters and electricians tape, fingernail polish, asphaltum, paint and lacquer are a few of the possible masking agents. You may find totally new effects with materials you have in your own shop. This is an area still being explored by each artist working in this medium.

Surface texture
This is a very important area in which to work. A change in texture on the anodized surface can cause dramatic changes in appearance. The simplest thing to do is try everything you know! Sanding, hammering, sand blasting.... anything goes! Hit it with a rock.

Getting started
First mix up some electrolyte and prepare a bath for anodizing as described above. Cut some small samples of metal to anodize (1/2 x 2 inches). Put on your rubber gloves! Clamp the red alligator clip to the top of one of the metal samples.

See that the MINI is turned Off and down to "0".

Hold the red (+) insulated clip in one gloved hand and submerge the metal sample three quarters into the bath. Turn On the MINI and rotate the dial slowly up to "10". You will see color begin to appear immediately on the sample. Turn Off the MINI and remove the sample. Wipe the sample off with a paper towel and glass cleaner to reveal the true color. That is all there is to basic bath anodizing. You can now make a set of color samples representing each step on the MINI's power scale. Record the setting on each sample for reference latter.

To make a rainbow effect start with the piece submerged. As the voltage is turned up slowly draw the piece out of the bath. A continuous rainbow of colors will appear with the lowest voltage at the top and the highest voltage at the bottom.

Please note that the MINI is capable of much higher voltages than generally required. Most work will be produced in the range of 0 to 75 (0-120 volts DC). Working at higher outputs may cause overheating and burns to appear on the metal surface. Anodizing at extreme voltages may require current limiting which is discussed in "Studio Preparation and Coloring of Titanium". A current limiter module for the MINI is available from RMS.

Anodic painting
As diagramed earlier a variety of applicators can be adapted to anodizing. When painting, the cathode (- black) and bath are brought to the work. The piece you wish to color should be taped or held in place on a non-conductive surface (glass, plastic) and connected to the red (+) lead. Never work on a metal table!

Moisten the applicator in the electrolyte. Turn the MINI On and adjust the voltage to the desired level. Wipe the applicator across the surface to anodize. The texture of a sponge or fabric can be printed on to the metal. Dampen the material and squeeze out the excess moisture. Set the voltage and touch the matrerial to the suface.

A voltmeter output module is available from RMS. This small attachment regulates the voltage so a voltmeter can render an accurate reading. Reading the voltage output without this module will be misleading and inaccurate.

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